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USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of
competition climbing A climbing competition (or comp) is usually held indoors on purpose built climbing walls. There are three main types of climbing competition: lead, speed, and bouldering. In lead climbing, the competitors start at the bottom of a route and must c ...
in the United States. It promotes competition climbing in the United States in the disciplines of
bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help sec ...
,
lead climbing Lead climbing is a climbing style, predominantly used in rock climbing. In a roped party one climber has to take the lead while the other climbers follow. The ''lead climber'' wears a harness attached to a climbing rope, which in turn is connected ...
, and
speed climbing Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. Competition speed climbing, which takes place on ...
, in elite, youth and collegiate formats. USA Climbing is recognized by the
International Federation for Sport Climbing The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competitive climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. It was founded in Frankfurt on 27 ...
(IFSC), the
International Olympic Committee The International Olympic Committee (IOC; french: link=no, Comité international olympique, ''CIO'') is a non-governmental sports organisation based in Lausanne, Switzerland. It is constituted in the form of an association under the Swiss ...
(IOC), and the
United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee The United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee (USOPC) is the National Olympic Committee and the National Paralympic Committee for the United States. It was founded in 1895 as the United States Olympic Committee, and is headquartered in Col ...
(USOPC)


Competition history

Below is a brief timeline of American competition climbing history: *1988 & 1989 – Stand-alone World Cup events at Snowbird, Utah, were organized by UIAA and the American Alpine Club. *1994 – Junior National Championship organized by the American Sport Climbers Federation (ASCF) is created. *1998 – The ASCF became the Junior Competition Climbing Association (JCCA). *2002 – The JCCA expanded to include adult competitors and changed its name again to the United States Competition Climbing Association (USCCA). *2003 – USCCA decided to rename the organization to what it is called today, USA Climbing (USAC). *2004 – USAC took over operations of the American Bouldering Series (ABS).


Competition structure


Elite

Any eligible climber aged 16 and older that meets the USAC qualification criteria may compete at Elite Nationals. There are no Regional or Divisional competitions for Elite competitors. The winners in each gender/event (Lead, Speed and Bouldering) at Elite Nationals are considered the National Champions of the United States. The only caveat is that a foreign national cannot be the National Champion of the US. If a foreign national wins any gender/event the next highest placed citizen of the US in that gender/event is the National Champion.


Youth

Youth climbers are subdivided into 5 age groups: *Junior(17-18 years old) *Youth A (15–16 years old) *Youth B (13–14 years old) *Youth C (11–12 years old) *Youth D (≤10 years old) The US is subdivided into 8 Divisions and 16 Regions. Anyone may compete in local competitions. USA Climbing members, who have attended at least two local competitions, may compete at Regionals. The top 10 competitors in each gender/category at Regionals receive an invitation to Divisionals. The top 6 competitors in each gender/category at Divisionals receive an invitation to Nationals. The top four climbers in each gender/category/event at Nationals are considered to be the U.S. Youth National Team. Youth on the National Teams for Junior, A and B are given the opportunity to compete at the Youth Pan American and Youth World Championships.


Collegiate

Provides access for undergraduate or graduate students that are currently enrolled at a college or university to compete in bouldering, lead and speed climbing.


Adaptive

Adaptive provides access for athletes with physical disabilities to compete in both bouldering and lead/top rope climbing. Categories included in Adaptive are open to those with physical disabilities: Neurological / Physical Disability, Visual Impairment, Upper Extremity Amputee, Lower Extremity, Amputee, Seated, Youth.


Elite bouldering

The following are the results for bouldering at Elite National Championship level.


Male


Female


Elite lead

The following are the results for lead at Elite National Championship level


Male


Female


Elite speed

Starting with the 2021 Speed National Championships, the US competition format was changed to match the IFSC speed climbing competition format. Prior to 2021, US Speed Climbing National Champions (and final ranking placements) were determined by the fastest climber to finish the speed route. As of 2021, US Speed National Champions were determined by the winners of the IFSC knockout format.


Male


Female


Current US speed record

USA Climbing recognizes official speed climbing time records in the Elite category only. Speed climbing records for the Youth age group categories are kept for developmental purposes and Youth age group records have had no official wall requirements or competition standards. Unofficial Youth speed climbing records can only be set at USAC Youth Qualifying Events, USAC Youth Regional Championships, USAC Youth Divisional Championships, USAC Youth National Championships, IFSC Youth Pan American Championships, and IFSC Youth World Championships, and other USAC or IFSC Youth-sanctioned events where age groups are contested. No records are kept for Youth age groups C and D since the speed climbing routes are different at every competition.


History of US speed record

Beginning in 2019, USA Climbing established specific criteria for setting official National Records in the Elite Speed Climbing category. As such, the National Records below for the Elite category have been officially recognized by USA Climbing.


Elite team (current)

The athletes who represent the United States in International competition events. *Bouldering & Lead National Team – Men ** Sean Bailey **
Nathaniel Coleman Nathaniel Coleman (born January 1, 1997) is an American professional climber who won the silver medal in men's combined sport climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. He became the first American male climber to qualify for the Olympic Games after ad ...
**
Colin Duffy Colin Duffy (born 1968) is an Irish republican, described by the BBC as the most recognisable name and face among dissident republicans in Northern Ireland. He was cleared of murder charges in three court cases involving police and army killings. ...
** Ben Hanna ** Jesse Grupper *Bouldering & Lead National Team – Women ** Melina Costanza ** Kylie Cullen ** Natalia Grossman ** Quinn Mason **
Brooke Raboutou Brooke Raboutou (born April 9, 2001) is an American professional rock climber. At age 9, she ticked a and became the youngest female to climb a . At 10, she sent a and became the youngest female to climb . At 11, she became the youngest femal ...
*Bouldering National Team – Men ** Sean Bailey **
Nathaniel Coleman Nathaniel Coleman (born January 1, 1997) is an American professional climber who won the silver medal in men's combined sport climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. He became the first American male climber to qualify for the Olympic Games after ad ...
**
Colin Duffy Colin Duffy (born 1968) is an Irish republican, described by the BBC as the most recognisable name and face among dissident republicans in Northern Ireland. He was cleared of murder charges in three court cases involving police and army killings. ...
** Zach Galla ** Ben Hanna *Bouldering National Team – Women ** Melina Costanza ** Kylie Cullen ** Natalia Grossman **
Maya Madere Maya may refer to: Civilizations * Maya peoples, of southern Mexico and northern Central America ** Maya civilization, the historical civilization of the Maya peoples ** Maya language, the languages of the Maya peoples * Maya (Ethiopia), a popul ...
**
Brooke Raboutou Brooke Raboutou (born April 9, 2001) is an American professional rock climber. At age 9, she ticked a and became the youngest female to climb a . At 10, she sent a and became the youngest female to climb . At 11, she became the youngest femal ...
*Lead National Team – Men ** Sean Bailey **
Nathaniel Coleman Nathaniel Coleman (born January 1, 1997) is an American professional climber who won the silver medal in men's combined sport climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. He became the first American male climber to qualify for the Olympic Games after ad ...
**
Colin Duffy Colin Duffy (born 1968) is an Irish republican, described by the BBC as the most recognisable name and face among dissident republicans in Northern Ireland. He was cleared of murder charges in three court cases involving police and army killings. ...
** Ross Fulkerson ** Jesse Grupper *Lead National Team – Women **
Kyra Condie Kyra Condie (born June 5, 1996) is one of four American rock climbers selected to represent Team USA at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, Japan. She placed 11th in the Women's Combined event in the sport of Sport Climbing. In December 2019, ...
** Melina Costanza ** Natalia Grossman ** Quinn Mason **
Brooke Raboutou Brooke Raboutou (born April 9, 2001) is an American professional rock climber. At age 9, she ticked a and became the youngest female to climb a . At 10, she sent a and became the youngest female to climb . At 11, she became the youngest femal ...
*Speed National Team – Men **
Noah Bratschi Noah Bratschi (born July 31, 2000) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition speed climbing and represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cups. He won the bronze medal at the 2021 International Federatio ...
** John Brosler ** Merritt Ernsberger ** Joe Goodacre ** Sam Watson *Speed National Team – Women ** Callie Close ** Emma Hunt ** Piper Kelly ** Olivia Ma ** Liberty Runnels


Elite team (historical)

2021 - The athletes who represented the United States at International competition events in 2021. * Men's Lead Team ** Sean Bailey **
Nathaniel Coleman Nathaniel Coleman (born January 1, 1997) is an American professional climber who won the silver medal in men's combined sport climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. He became the first American male climber to qualify for the Olympic Games after ad ...
**
Colin Duffy Colin Duffy (born 1968) is an Irish republican, described by the BBC as the most recognisable name and face among dissident republicans in Northern Ireland. He was cleared of murder charges in three court cases involving police and army killings. ...
** Timothy Kang ** Ellis Ernsberger * Men's Speed Team ** Merritt Ernsberger ** John Brosler **
Noah Bratschi Noah Bratschi (born July 31, 2000) is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition speed climbing and represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cups. He won the bronze medal at the 2021 International Federatio ...
**
Nathaniel Coleman Nathaniel Coleman (born January 1, 1997) is an American professional climber who won the silver medal in men's combined sport climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. He became the first American male climber to qualify for the Olympic Games after ad ...
**
Colin Duffy Colin Duffy (born 1968) is an Irish republican, described by the BBC as the most recognisable name and face among dissident republicans in Northern Ireland. He was cleared of murder charges in three court cases involving police and army killings. ...
* Men's Bouldering Team **
Nathaniel Coleman Nathaniel Coleman (born January 1, 1997) is an American professional climber who won the silver medal in men's combined sport climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. He became the first American male climber to qualify for the Olympic Games after ad ...
** Ross Fulkerson **
Colin Duffy Colin Duffy (born 1968) is an Irish republican, described by the BBC as the most recognisable name and face among dissident republicans in Northern Ireland. He was cleared of murder charges in three court cases involving police and army killings. ...
** Ben Hanna ** John Brock * Women's Lead Team **
Kyra Condie Kyra Condie (born June 5, 1996) is one of four American rock climbers selected to represent Team USA at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, Japan. She placed 11th in the Women's Combined event in the sport of Sport Climbing. In December 2019, ...
** Natalia Grossman **
Brooke Raboutou Brooke Raboutou (born April 9, 2001) is an American professional rock climber. At age 9, she ticked a and became the youngest female to climb a . At 10, she sent a and became the youngest female to climb . At 11, she became the youngest femal ...
**
Ashima Shiraishi Ashima Shiraishi (白石阿島, ''Shiraishi Ashima'', born April 3, 2001) is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established ...
** Maya Madere * Women's Speed Team ** Emma Hunt **
Kyra Condie Kyra Condie (born June 5, 1996) is one of four American rock climbers selected to represent Team USA at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, Japan. She placed 11th in the Women's Combined event in the sport of Sport Climbing. In December 2019, ...
** Julia Duffy ** Callie Close **
Brooke Raboutou Brooke Raboutou (born April 9, 2001) is an American professional rock climber. At age 9, she ticked a and became the youngest female to climb a . At 10, she sent a and became the youngest female to climb . At 11, she became the youngest femal ...
* Women's Bouldering Team ** Natalia Grossman **
Kyra Condie Kyra Condie (born June 5, 1996) is one of four American rock climbers selected to represent Team USA at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, Japan. She placed 11th in the Women's Combined event in the sport of Sport Climbing. In December 2019, ...
**
Brooke Raboutou Brooke Raboutou (born April 9, 2001) is an American professional rock climber. At age 9, she ticked a and became the youngest female to climb a . At 10, she sent a and became the youngest female to climb . At 11, she became the youngest femal ...
** Kylie Cullen ** Campbell Sarinopoulos


Youth bouldering


Male Junior


Female Junior


Male Youth A


Female Youth A


Male Youth B


Female Youth B


Male Youth C


Female Youth C


Male Youth D


Female Youth D


Youth lead


Male Junior


Female Junior


Male Youth A


Female Youth A


Male Youth B


Female Youth B


Male Youth C


Female Youth C


Male Youth D


Female Youth D


Youth speed


Male Junior


Female Junior


Male Youth A


Female Youth A


Male Youth B


Female Youth B


Male Youth C


Female Youth C


Male Youth D


Female Youth D


See also

*
International Federation of Sport Climbing The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competitive climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. It was founded in Frankfurt on 27 Ja ...
*
IFSC Climbing World Cup The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of climbing competitions held annually and organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). The athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering and speed. The number of competit ...
*
IFSC Climbing World Championships The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial (i.e. held once every two years) world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the m ...
* IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships


References


External links

* {{Sports governing bodies of the United States Climbing organizations Sports governing bodies in the United States